A perfect weekend getaway to Malmö

A beautiful summers day to be out and about in Malmö Stad!

Malmö is the 3rd largest city in Sweden and is located in Southern Sweden a.k.a. Skåne (pronounced sko-neh). A fairly easy walkable city with a bad reputation recently due to the rise in car fires in certain neighborhoods. HOWEVER, you shouldn't be afraid because Malmö is a fun little city for a weekend getaway and much cheaper than Copenhagen just across the Öresund strait. Apart from the rising violence is certain neighborhoods, the central part of Malmö is charming and quite safe to walk around in. I've been here mostly on day trips from Copenhagen because it is so easy to travel here by train. I spent a weekend in the winter here and had a great little trip wandering around the city on foot. I like the smaller cities of Europe as they are not inundated with so many tourists and easy to navigate around by foot. 

Just outside the Central Station there are these beautiful bridges to cross into Gamla stan

A bit gloomy in the winter but still lovely to explore!

A sunny summers' day for a day trip in Malmö! Outside the Central Station

How to get to Malmö

Flight to Copenhagen Airport (København Lufthavn) and then taking the train from the airport across the Öresund bridge. This bridge is famous as the location for the hit Danish-Swedish TV drama series, Den Brøn/Den Brön or The Bridge. The views from the Bridge are quite stunning so remember to get your cameras out!

Travel tip: Bring your passport with you when crossing the border from Denmark to Sweden as the border control is in effect due to the rising refugee crisis and security efforts.

The Öresund Bridge

What to see

Turning Torso

1) Turning Torso

This architecture marvel is the tallest building in Scandinavia and the residents are so lucky to live in such cool building. I walked here from the central station on my birthday last year and it was quite the eventful walk. It is quite a distance from the central station so I recommend that you take one of the public buses to get here. Otherwise, you'll be walking for about 30 minutes and it is fine if the weather is nice and not too windy!

2) Ribersborgsstranden

Just next to the residential neighborhood that houses the Turning Torso building is Ribersborgsstranden (see if you can pronounce that like a native Skåne resident!). It has beautiful views of the Öresund strait and Öresund bridge. The picture above was taken that this very particular beach park. I watched the sunset from this place and it was so stunning. I'd imagine summers here are wonderful with picnics, sunbathing, and jumping into the cool waters.

3) Malmöhus Slott

For a glimpse at Swedish history with Denmark and Skåne county, this former castle fortress is an interesting stop. Skåne used to belong to Denmark and one can argue that Skånska (southern Swedish vernacular) sounds a bit like Danish. Many Swedes from the north, particularly from the capital city of Stockholm lovingly mock the accent. As a Swedish language student, I find it a bit difficult to understand but there are many Swedish residents in Malmö that come from the north and reside there or deal with northerners frequently so will speak a bit more clearly. 

This castle is the oldest standing fort from the Renaissance era and was once an important place where Denmark's coins were minted there. Erik of Pomerania, King of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden built the castle on the grounds now occupied by Malmöhus in 1434. The strategic position of the castle facing westwards could monitor and protect all the shipping traffic coming in from the Öresund strait. During World War II, Malmöhus was used as a refugee camp to house all those fleeing from the war. When I went to visit the museum there was an exhibit telling the stories of those who fled the war and stayed in Malmöhus with the stories of the new immigrants coming into Sweden. This museum also holds temporary exhibitions that shed light on Swedish history and Swedish way of life. 

4) Slottsparken
Just next to Malmöhus Slott is a beautiful park with gardens. Malmö has these gardens littered throughout the city that offers a nice respite from the brick buildings and concrete. I recommend that you take a stroll through the park either before or after your visit to Malmöhus Slott if you have time and it isn't too dark. 

Just outside the Moderna Museet Malmö 

5) Moderna Museet Malmö
Unlike all the modern museums I've visited in bigger cities. This was a small museum and perfect for an indoor activity when the weather is rather cold, windy, and raining! I love modern art and all its weirdness because it is an edgy art form that pushes the envelope on what our views of the world and what we consider as art in itself. This museum isn't very big and houses temporary exhibits. The museum is free entry.
I wish I had seen my former movement improvisation teacher, Simone Forti's work reconstructed and performed at the museum in 2015. 

Lilla Torg

Lilla Torg

Sankt Petri Kyrka - Saint Peters' Church

6) Gamla Stan: Stortorget, Lillatorg, Gustav Adolfs Torg

I highly recommend wandering around the old town and the Stortorget, Lillatorg, and Gustav Adolfs Torg are perfect squares that have little stores, cafes, hotels, restaurants, and bars to leisurely wander through. This is probably my favorite activity in Malmö. I like wandering around all the little streets around these areas. The buildings are well preserved and you'll find so many cute little nooks and crannies to take your social media worthy pictures for #latergramfordays #tbt and #throwbackthursdays ! 

Where I stayed: Radisson Blu Malmö

My room is huge at Radisson Blu Malmö

Centrally located, walking distance to the Central Station, and close to shops, restaurants, bars, attractions. I was surprised by the large room though and would recommend staying here in a heartbeat as Radisson Blu has one of the best hotel breakfasts ever! It is located next to the Caroli shopping centre which has an ICA supermarket housed in it as well as some nice shops and restaurants.

Where to Eat:

Köttbaren is literally translated as The Meat Bar! 

Yummy burger!

Köttbaren recently changed their name to Burger and Friends. This restaurant is located in the shopping centre, Caroli right next to the hotel which is very convenient as I was starving at the time I arrived and checked in. That burger tasted so good! They belong to the same restaurant group that owns Kött & Fisk in Stockholm and the food there is also fantastic.



Peas & Honey gastropub house was recommended to me by a friend in Stockholm. I went there for dinner and ordered a beer to go along with my moules frites. The portion was generous, the fries were salty, the mussels were garlicky and succulent. Friendly people working here with a mysigt (cozy) atmosphere. I returned for a beer on another trip to Malmö with a couple friends because it was a super chill place.

And of course FIKA! You're in Sweden! Fika är bästa tid!

Softest Kanellebulle I've ever eaten!

Coffee Factory Sweden

Or have a sandwich near Gustav Adolfs Torg and sit outside in the summer

Briska cider is probably my favorite Swedish cider!

The best time to visit Malmö is certainly the summer months when everyone is out enjoying the long summer days in the sun. However, it is also nice to visit in the winter when the Christmas market and lights are all set up. There's something magical about walking through the streets on a winter night sipping glögg (Christmas mulled wine) and nibbling on some pepparkaka (cinnamon cookies) then taking refuge in a cozy restaurant with candles all around. 

Despite what anyone says, Malmö is a cute little city and I will always stop by for a visit whenever I'm in the area. 

Why living in Brussels was difficult for me and how I adjusted

Brussels is the EU Headquarters and was an interesting place to live in, even though my time there was all too brief. Out of all the countries I've lived in, this place tested me in many ways. I needed to find that happy medium during the periods of adjustment that every expat goes through when moving to a new country. Some places are easier than others. Brussels was difficult for me. 

Some of these reasons are typical of an expat and periods of adjustment but mostly my personal experiences...

1) Language barrier. Brussels is a French speaking city for the most part and there is a small section that borders the flanders section which speaks Dutch. Having a small knowledge of both French and Dutch, I thought I would be fine. It was certainly challenging! Even small things like asking where the eggs, oatmeal, bread, dishwashing liquid are became an adventure. Grocery shopping was like a jigsaw puzzle for me. Knowing some Dutch words and some French words, I managed to find my way around the store. Google maps was my friend and luckily wifi was easy to find. 

2) Safety risk. I was actually fearful of a terrorist attack when I moved to Brussels for an internship and then I heard about safety issues in general that plague the EU headquarters. I was stubborn and still chose to move to Brussels even after there was a lockdown on the city a week after the Paris attacks. Looking at the news from afar was definitely fear-mongering and how much can we trust the sensationalization of the media these days. I minimized my risk by choosing to live near my office outside the city center so I wouldn't have to ride public transport during the morning rush hour and didn't go to crowded places very much. I dislike crowded places and rush hour traffic anyway.

3) Knowing no one. Most of the places I've lived in in the past, there was always someone I knew or an educational institution which made meeting new people and making friends very easy. Brussels was completely foreign to me. I only knew the people that worked within close proximity to me. Eventually, I started to slowly create a routine for myself going to the gym, taking a dance class, and signing up for a Swedish language course which had quite a small eclectic group of International people. When an acquaintance from Singapore moved to Brussels with her husband, I managed to meet up with them for some lovely brunches. Though it was difficult at first, I grew very comfortable with spending a lot of time alone. 

4) Adjusting to desk life.  I have always been very active in the art of the hustle working in performing arts and creative industries. It was quite the adjustment to working in an office with other people sitting nearby typing away on computers doing tasks that contribute to a large company. It was  a glimpse into corporate world for me and quite a different working culture than I was used to. As a creative go-getter that gets a lot of things done with an ability to multi-task. I felt like my previous skills were being put to good use. However, my eyes certainly felt tired at the end of each day. There was even a few days where I would come home and put sliced cold cucumbers over my eyes to let them relax.

5) The weather was unpredictable and gloomy. I moved during winter in Belgium and the winters there can have some very ugly wet days with strong winds. I have lived in New York City for most of my twenties and sometimes the weather in winter can be pretty cold, windy, frigid, wet, and also the appearance of blizzards! I never experienced seasonal depression much as I prefer when the weather is a bit colder and crisp. I think fall is the best season but I didn't dislike winter. I actually like snow and winter sports. BUT... I was certainly not prepared to experience the unpredictable weather of Belgium. In a single day, one can experience, rain, fog, snow, hail, strong winds, and sunny skies. On the rare days that the weather and skies were clear, I would grab the opportunity to go and explore! Those are also the days that I really appreciated the sunny skies.

I had a few more serious problems living in Brussels that I won't divulge here but when I left Brussels, I really began to miss it. I missed it a lot! When I returned a few months later for a few days, I was quite happy to be back and took the opportunity to enjoy what the capital of the EU had to offer in those few days. Perhaps I was adjusting to living there and making a new normal. As a third culture kid who has lived in numerous places around the world since I was a child, it seems every country has its unique challenges. The journey of life and where it takes us is not one to take for granted. Every ups and downs are meant to be lived through and experienced. Like the unpredictable weather, one needs to experience both to appreciate the good that happens. 

J'adore Bruxelles!

Letters to/from Laura and Alaine: Laura's Picasso postcard from Spain

Letters to/from Laura and Alaine: Laura's Picasso postcard from Spain



My dancer Laura sent me a Picasso postcard from Spain. I made a short dance film response to her postcard. Dancing under the Marble Arch in London.

Why I started travel blogging: I'm a third culture kid

A third culture kid (TCK) is a person who has grown up in different countries and cultures therefore developing cultural traditions as a mixed salad of different cultures as opposed to feeling rooted in just one. A hybridity of cultures.

I was born in Singapore, childhood in Jakarta, then pre-teen through teen years in Singapore, University in LA, early to late twenties working and living in New York, back to Singapore, then Graduate school in Switzerland, internship in Brussels, back to Singapore and now Global Nomad writing about my life as a hybrid of cultures and travel. Its quite confusing to tell people "where I'm from?" because I'm a mixed bag. A long story. A complicated background of cultures. I hold a passport that is pretty foreign to me and when going through visa applications and immigration it always baffles people. I have also spent summers living in Sydney, Lake Arrowhead, San Francisco, LA, Durham (NC), Washington DC, Toronto, and Edinburgh either visiting family, summer camps, and performing in festivals.

My accent is American with an international school lilt sometimes, Californian sometimes, and New Yorker sometimes. I have mostly Chinese heritage (my ancestors but my parents are as global and cultural hybrids themselves) but I speak zero Chinese except beyond "Ni Hao" "Xie Xie" with a English accent. English is my native language although Bahasa Indonesian is my first language though I've got the fluency of a 3 year old. I studied Japanese for 8 years in grade school and can only muster up broken Japanese these days. I studied Swedish in University intensively for a year then in recent years have been self studying with books, newspapers, music, tv/film, online courses, speaking to Swedes, and took a brief course while I was in Brussels and I read and understand it pretty well. Briefly studied German (what a hard language!) for 6 months and can still order food or understand basic German alright. I started learning a bit of French because of my love for wine (what a wine geek!)

So that's just a tip of the iceberg on my complicated TCK life... I'm not going to bother you with the rest

Why I started travel blogging

I wanted a little place to tell my stories. I've traveled my entire life and have been to so many places on this small world. It is my rolodex, my portfolio, and to inspire others to become global citizens. The world is not that big. 

My immediate family and extended family members live across world in different countries - there's no such thing as having a family reunion that all of us can make it. We would fill an entire grand ballroom if that ever happened. I have not met my entire extended family. 

Growing up as an expat kid and then later as an expat and world traveler means that I also have friends all over the world. My network continues to grow in geography. Its wonderful! 

Last but not least, I started travel blogging because I want to remember the stories and memories. Memories are my home and I don't want to forget them. 

This is my ever-growing list of Places I've been to

A showcase by Singapore International Foundation artists who have received funding in 2013/2014. My dance production, Habitat, toured to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival 2013. 

6 of my favorite Capital Cities in the world

6 of my favorite Capital Cities in the world

1. New York City

New York City is where it all happens. Wall street, Fashion, Broadway, Hipsters, Food trends. Technically not the capital city of the USA but in my opinion its the capital city of the world. I had a beautiful love affair with New York City as my home. Just walking in a city that literally never sleeps and convenience at your doorstep (Hello Seamlessweb, Rent the Runway, Fresh Direct, Beauty services, etc.) or a subway/bus ride away, you can get anything and be anything in New York. Its a vibrant bustling city with the most talented and no-nonsense people you will find. You either love it or hate it.

My Favorite spots in New York





2. Stockholm

Stockholm has beautiful architecture, islands, people, food, culture, fashion, fika, and lifestyle. This city is stunning! From my first visit to my 8th - the experiences and memories were all different and according to the seasons. This Swedish capital morphs and changes according to seasons along with its residents. In the summer, everyone is out ALL the time and partying. When the leaves start to fall and the air gets a little colder, people prepare for the holiday season and head back to indoors-only activities. During the winter months, the days are short and the dark winter nights make walking around a bit chillier but has that mysterious air that is captured perfectly in Nordic Noir films.

When in Sweden, YOU must have a Fika






3. Amsterdam/Copenhagen

Quirky, weird, architecture, canals, coffee shops, liberals, art, Indonesian food, and eclectic. Amsterdam has the trappings of what I love. A capital city that acts like a town. This is a walking city (or if you're an expert city biker) and the trams are also easy to navigate. Residents are always on a rush on their bikes so get out of their way! However, if you find them in a cafe, coffee shop, restaurant, they are certainly a friendly bunch. I've used Amsterdam as a pit stop for a couple nights in most recent years whenever I'm traveling through Europe. The architecture is really quaint and you will want to constantly be taking pictures of every canal and bridge you pass through.

Summer part 1 in Brussels and Amsterdam





Copenhagen

Copenhagen is another fantastic walking city that is lined with colorful buildings, Danish design interior furniture, cobble stone streets, castles, palaces, museums, and tons of Michelin starred restaurants and bars. Similar to Amsterdam, Copenhagen also has residents that are in a hurry on their bikes to get to their destinations so I would only recommend renting a bike if you're an expert city cyclist. A lot of innovation and creativity goes on in Copenhagen and you can see it in the food, fashion, design, and architecture. Always looking forward and innovating, the Danes have a great quality of life in a sense that they make sure they take breaks to refresh their mind before figuring out the next great design.

My journey to Noma




4. London

Oh London! You amaze me with your stunning old architecture and new skyscrapers. Winding little alleyways to riverside walks along the Thames. I have to be honest, the first time I was in London, I wasn't too impressed. I was in a weird headspace at that time and kept comparing London to New York. London is not New York. London is London. A British metropolis with traditions of standing outside the pub while drinking beer, eating fish and chips or pie on the way home, rushing around in the tube stations, walking fast and looking preoccupied, free art museums, beautiful palaces and gardens, thriving art scene, and very cool residents. The more I visit this fine metropolis, the more I adore it and simply want to discover different neighbourhoods.

Wandering amongst hipsters in Shoreditch







5. Vienna

Music, easy public transportation, urban, good food, palaces, cafes, museums, art, and good coffee, wine, beer, schnitzel! Vienna is a wonderful city and its no big surprise that its rated very highly as one of the most liveable cities of the world. With moderate prices, big wide streets, lots of bike paths (I did rent a bike and ride through the city here - with a lot of caution of course!), friendly residents, and just gorgeous architecture. I have been to Vienna only a couple times but I want to keep returning because there is so much to do and see in this beautiful city.

Summer part 3: Music, schnitzel, museums, and palaces in Vienna

6. Singapore

And now we've come to my birth country and where I hold my permanent residence card proudly. Singapore is a small island country off the tip of Malaysia very close to the equator. The tropical temperatures really get to me and I spend most of my days indoors in Singapore. I grew up here as an expat kid and went to an international school. Those were some good and bad memories. The food scene in Singapore is incredible with local food dishes to the multitude of hipster eateries and cafes, celebrity chef owned restaurants, and not to mention the cool speakeasies, cocktail bars, and pumping clubs. Its a love/hate relationship with Singapore for me at times because it isn't easy to be a third culture kid returning to a place that I once called home. I feel like an anomaly because I speak, act, and think differently from true-blue Singaporeans due to my background. My friends in Singapore are mostly other expats or globally-minded Singaporeans. Though most of these feelings are personal conflict, subjectively speaking... Singapore is a great place with skyscrapers, urban gardens, abundance of food, shopping centres, and the mix of Chinese, Malay, Indian, Eurasian, Expats, Tourists, make it an interesting multicultural country.

A bourgeois guide to eating, drinking, shopping, and pampering in Singapore

Fika is the best Swedish habit

UPDATE! Purchase a signed limited edition copy of my cookbook "In search of the best Swedish chokladbollar"

Fika is a mandated coffee break in the middle of the afternoon in Sweden. A coffee break to unwind, socialise with a friend or colleague or a casual date. But it is also acceptable to have a fika by yourself. The most traditional way to take a fika is to have a coffee with a cake or a savory snack. The most similar I have adopted taking fika in the afternoon when I need to unwind and have something sweet with a coffee. My favorite fika snack is kanelbullar (Swedish cinnamon bun) or a chokladbollar (Swedish chocolate ball). 

When in Sweden, take a Fika! 

Kanelbullar 

Saffransbullar paired with bryggt kaffe (black coffee) at Fabrique

Taking a fika in Malmö at Folk å Rock

One of my favorite activities is to take a fika and observe all the people around me. It is a great people-watching activity without the pressure of a full meal. Just a coffee and perhaps something sweet too. People watching in a cafe is a great solo travel activity. Fika is equally satisfying when shared with a friend. Having a good conversation over coffee and cake. We are so connected on social media and the internet these days that we forget to reconnect in real life. Fika is one of those activities that make it worthwhile to reconnect with another human being.

I high recommend that you check out this super cool documentary web series about Fika made by Fabian Schmid, a Swiss filmmaker who spent a lot of time in Sweden and interviewed the owners, employees, and guests of cafes in Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmö, Lund, and Helsingborg. Its a super cool series that you should check out!

Chokladbollar at home is the best

Homemade chokladbollar with coconut

Homemade Chokladbollar with pearl sugar

I have been making chokladbollar at least once a month for the past few years. The recipe is fairly simple but you make your own variation to the original to make it that much better. Swedish kids grow up learning to make chokladbollar since its a no-bake recipe. I think the best chokladbollar has dark chocolate sweet, bitter, moist, and dry. The best chokladbollar I've purchased come from Östermalms Saluhall Roberts Coffee and NK Konditoriet i Nordiska Kompaniet department store in Stockholm. 

You can find Swedes taking a fika at home, at cafes, in a park, in the summer cottage. One thing is for certain it is a time to reflect, unwind, refresh, and reconnect. Sometimes we forget how to reconnect and life passes us by while we bury ourselves behind work, electronic devices, social media, chores, errands, that we forget to take a moment to stop and reconnect with the present moment. 

A savoury fika of lax, dill cream cheese, knäckebröd at home

Sometimes I don't feel like a fika with a sweet something so a little knäckebröd with lax (smoked salmon) and a smear of cream cheese washed down with coffee is perfect. Fika doesn't always have to be something sweet. Something small and savoury can be equally satisfying if one does not have a sweet tooth. 

Snickarbacken 7 in Stockholm

Snickarbacken 7 in Stockholm is part gallery, part cafe, part boutique, but so Swedish and makes the perfect place to take a fika. Located on a dead end street in upscale Östermalm district you would think that this would be a place that wouldn't have that chill vibe. With tall ceilings, quirky art on the walls (that are available for purchase), and a boutique in the corner; it appears to not have a holier-than-thou attitude. 

This cafe is in the documentary web series fika:to have coffee as one of the locations.



Fika is a wonderful Swedish tradition and taking a fika in the mid-afternoon slump can probably reinvigorate your energy levels. Fika does not have to be chokladbollar, kanellbullar, saffransbullar, chokladtårta, prinsesstårta, etc. it can certainly just be a banana, knäckebröd with lox, a piece of fruit, acai bowl, as long as it goes well with coffee, tea, or juice.

Fika is a tradition, a habit, a way of life of being present. To unwind, energise, restore, either in solitude or in the company of others. I like it. I've embraced and adopted it because coffee (especially a good cup of joe IS truly the nectar of the gods!)
Vill du fika med mig?